Does it Work?

They’re Skincare’s Most Talked-About Ingredients – But Do They Actually Work?

The Science Behind Peptides, Oestrogen Cream, Collagen, and LED Masks

• The skincare industry thrives on innovation, but not all ingredients live up to the hype. Peptides, oestrogen creams, collagen, and LED masks are frequently touted as game-changers, but do they actually deliver? Let’s break down the science and separate fact from fiction.

Peptides: The Anti-Ageing Powerhouse?

• Peptides are often marketed as a superstar anti-ageing ingredient, promising firmer, plumper skin with fewer fine lines. But what’s the truth? Peptides are short chains of amino acids that tell your skin to produce more collagen, a key protein that keeps your skin smooth and bouncy.
• While some research suggests that peptides may support skin health, the evidence is still inconclusive. Not all peptide formulations are effective, and many claims go beyond what has been – so far – scientifically proven. If peptides have any benefit, they likely work best as part of a well-rounded skincare routine rather than a miracle fix.

Oestrogen Cream: Should You Use It on Your Skin?

• Oestrogen plays a key role in skin health, and as levels decline with age, skin can become drier, thinner, and less elastic. Some have turned to topical oestrogen creams as a way to counteract these effects, with claims that they reduce wrinkles and improve hydration. While there is some early evidence that oestrogen may impact skin quality, the research is still limited. Many of the studies involve small sample sizes, and conflicts of interest within research make the findings less reliable.
• Another major concern is safety. Oestrogen is a powerful hormone, and applying it to the skin can cause irritation, allergic reactions, or worsen pigmentation issues. There are also unanswered questions about how much is absorbed into the bloodstream and whether it could pose a risk for individuals with hormone-sensitive conditions. Until more robust research is conducted, most dermatologists advise against using oestrogen creams for skincare.

Collagen: Hype or Holy Grail?

• Collagen is the protein that gives skin its structure, but our natural collagen production slows down as we age. The skincare industry has responded with an influx of collagen supplements, powders, and creams claiming to replenish what’s lost. But do they work?
• The answer is far from certain. Collagen creams? Mostly ineffective – collagen molecules are too large to penetrate the skin. Collagen drinks and supplements?
• Many studies on collagen supplementation are industry-funded, making it difficult to determine their true worth. While some suggest collagen may support the body's natural collagen production when paired with vitamin C, there is no solid independent research proving long-term benefits. For now, collagen supplements remain more of a marketing trend than a scientifically backed solution.

LED Masks and Red-Light Therapy: A Trend That Falls Short

• LED masks, particularly red-light therapy, are often promoted as an effective way to boost collagen, reduce inflammation, and even help with acne. While clinical red-light therapy used in dermatology offices has some evidence supporting its effectiveness, the at-home versions tell a different story. Most consumer-grade LED masks do not have the power or intensity needed to produce significant skin changes. The wavelengths are often too weak to penetrate deep into the skin, meaning the results are minimal at best.
• For those considering an at-home LED mask, the reality is that it’s unlikely to provide noticeable benefits. If red light therapy is something you want to explore, professional treatments remain the better option.

The Verdict: Science Over Hype

• So, what’s the takeaway? Peptides and collagen supplements remain areas of ongoing research, but there is no conclusive proof they deliver the transformative effects often advertised. Oestrogen creams and at-home LED masks, meanwhile, lack sufficient evidence and are not currently recommended. The key to effective skincare isn’t just following trends – it’s about knowing what actually works for your skin.
• Ready to move beyond the hype? ilik’s personalised skincare solutions are designed to take the guesswork out of skincare, delivering exactly what your skin needs. Go To Home